Cuba's capital, with the UNESCO-protected old town Habana Vieja, the historic Malecón, colorful colonial facades, vintage cars and live music on every corner. This is where I lived for two weeks and got to know Cuba's everyday life.
I flew with Air Europa from Frankfurt via Madrid to Havana, around 13 hours total including the layover, round trip with extra luggage cost about €800 per person. From the airport it was a taxi (around 30–40 minutes, about $30, euros and dollars accepted) into the center. Important: there's neither an ATM nor a SIM card stand at the airport, so definitely bring cash for your first expenses.
Centrally located right in the old town, tastefully furnished and good value for money (€540 for 16 nights), though it was loud at night, and the area felt somewhat unsafe after dark.
Verdict: For 2–3 nights right in the middle of the action it's a good choice, for a longer stay I'd lean toward the quieter Vedado or a more touristy street instead.
In a safer and quieter area: stylishly furnished, friendly hosts, tasty breakfast.
Only at check-out did they suddenly want euros or dollars only, even though pesos had been agreed on beforehand, I'd clarify this in advance.
Lies east of Havana and stretches for several kilometers with fine, white sand and clear, turquoise water. Especially on weekends many Havanneros come here, the sea is usually calm and good for swimming, and small bars along the beach serve Cuban snacks and cocktails.
In the old town I loved stopping in for a coffee or a relaxed breakfast.
A good address for crêpes and tapas in a cozy atmosphere.
A large selection of Cuban classics, fresh fish and pizza too.
Good for a sweet refreshment in between.
Street food stalls sell grilled corn on the cob with salt, butter or cheese, a cheap snack on the go.
Stylish cocktail bars for a relaxed evening.
The legendary bar, an institution since 1942 and reportedly Hemingway's go-to spot for mojitos.
An evening here is, for me, one of the best experiences in Havana, a former factory hall with art galleries, live music and a dance floor in the Vedado neighborhood (Thu–Sun, 10pm–2am).
Just as impressive was this basement club with first-class live music (entry around 375 pesos including one drink).
Worth a visit for its coral-stone facade.
The imposing building is worth a visit.
A stroll down this street with its historic pharmacies is worthwhile.
Anyone interested in Cuban history will find exciting exhibits in the former presidential palace, including the yacht Granma.
Worth a visit for souvenirs and handicrafts, this market at the harbor.
Good for fresh fruit and vegetables.
My main reason for the two weeks in Havana was an intensive Spanish course, which I used as study leave (€1,040 through the provider Sprachcafe).
Verdict: Looking back, I'd call the value for money poor: the teachers were competent and likeable, but the school was located out of the way, the facilities were in poor condition, and excursions were initially offered in euros or dollars only, even though payment in pesos had been promised. If you're planning study leave in Cuba too, I'd research the school more thoroughly beforehand than I did.