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Vienna

Vienna was the opening act of my Austria trip and the perfect starting point: a mix of imperial splendor, classic coffeehouse culture and modern city life, plus the Heurigen wine taverns on the edge of town in the 19th district for relaxed evenings among the vineyards.

Schönbrunn Palace with its gardens, maze and the Gloriette viewing terraceHistoric coffeehouses like Café CentralHeurigen and Buschenschanken wine taverns in the vineyards of the 19th district

Getting to Vienna

I traveled with the ÖBB Nightjet from Cologne overnight to Vienna, departing around 10–11pm, arriving the next morning after about 11 to 13 hours in a seating compartment with adjustable seats, relaxed and without changing trains. The way back was during the day with the ICE to Frankfurt, a comfortable direct connection with plenty of legroom and WiFi in around 7 hours. Round trip together cost around €80 per person.

Accommodation in Vienna

Blackhome Wien

Centrally located with good public transport connections, just a few minutes to the city center. About €100 a night, very good value for money. Modern and stylish interior, good location with a fast connection to the center, easy self-service check-in via machine, ideal for flexible arrivals.

Verdict: The perfect choice for anyone who values design, comfort and independence, especially recommendable for couples or solo travelers thanks to its central location, fair price and simple check-in.

Blackhome Wien

a&o Hostel Wien Hauptbahnhof

Central, only about a 5-minute walk from Vienna's main train station, ideal for arrival by train or a good connection to the airport. About €90 a night for a double room, okay to somewhat lacking value for money. Central location near the main station, adequate if rather basic breakfast, quick access to public transport. Downside: rooms with thin walls, very minimalist and plain, little charm.

Verdict: Scores mainly through its central location and practical accessibility, if you don't have high expectations and just want a place to sleep, this is the right choice.

The Best Food in Vienna

Reinthaler's Beisl

Central, near the Stephansplatz subway station, a traditional Viennese Beisl with a cozy atmosphere and friendly service. Classic Austrian dishes like Wiener Schnitzel (also vegetarian), Käsespätzle and spinach dumplings, very good value for money especially given the central location.

Verdict: An excellent choice for anyone who wants to enjoy genuine Viennese cuisine in an authentic setting.

Reinthaler's Beisl

Cafe Central

In the first district, near the Hofburg, a coffeehouse steeped in tradition with an impressive historic atmosphere, high ceilings, marble columns and a stylish interior. We had breakfast here and ate Kaiserschmarrn, both very tasty and beautifully presented, attentive service despite the crowds.

Verdict: A genuine experience and ideal for a stylish breakfast or a typical Viennese sweet dish.

Cafe Central

Stöckl im Park

Idyllically set in the Belvedere palace garden, a cozy tavern with a lovely terrace and traditional flair. We did a beer tasting with a starter platter of Obazda, pretzels, spreads and other Bavarian-Austrian specialties, a relaxed atmosphere, attentive and friendly service.

Verdict: An ideal place for anyone who wants to enjoy good beer in an idyllic setting, perfect for a break from the city's hustle and bustle.

Stöckl im Park

SOFI Vera Pizza Napoletana

Central in the 1st district, not far from Schwedenplatz, a stylish, modern spot focused on authentic Neapolitan pizza. Fluffy dough, high-quality and authentic ingredients, friendly and attentive staff.

Verdict: Ideal for a relaxed dinner with an aperitivo feel right in the middle of the city.

Brasserie Palmenhaus

Right in the Burggarten between the Hofburg and the Albertina, tall glass ceilings, tropical plants and stylish interiors create a unique atmosphere. The coffee didn't quite win us over on taste, but the location is impressive.

Verdict: A beautiful place for a stylish break amid greenery, worth it for the atmosphere and setting alone.

Brasserie Palmenhaus

Café Gloriette

Above Schönbrunn Palace with a wide view over the city, after our palace visit we enjoyed coffee and cake here, both really good, friendly staff and attentive service.

Verdict: A lovely café for a relaxed break with a view, ideal for winding down the walk through the palace grounds.

Café Gloriette

Nook Cafe

In the 6th district, a bit away from the crowds, a small, stylish café with a cozy vibe. Coffee, matcha and croissant, all delicious, simple, modern and welcoming decor.

Verdict: A lovely spot for coffee or matcha lovers, perfect for a little break away from the typical tourist cafés.

Nook Cafe

Chasen Brew, Specialty Matcha & Coffee

In the 7th district, minimalist, modern and entirely focused on matcha and coffee, we ordered an iced matcha.

Verdict: Perfect for a short stop with flavor, clean, modern and really well done.

The Best Activities in Vienna

Schönbrunn Palace

One of Vienna's most significant sights, an architectural gem with imperial history, the former summer residence of the Habsburgs. Grand rooms, sprawling gardens and a magnificent view over Vienna, a guided tour is especially worthwhile to learn more about Empress Sisi, Emperor Franz Joseph and the monarchy.

We had the Classic Pass for €40 per person, including the Grand Tour of the palace (with audio guide or guided tour), access to the Crown Prince Garden, admission to the maze/labyrinth, access to the Orangery Garden and admission to the Gloriette viewing terrace. In western Vienna, well connected by subway (Schönbrunn station, U4), open daily 8:30am to 5:30pm.

Verdict: A must for anyone interested in history, architecture and imperial Vienna, impressive, varied and expansive.

Schönbrunn Palace

Schönbrunn Palace Gardens

Included in the ticket were the historic maze with several paths and viewing platforms as well as the Crown Prince Garden and the Orangery Garden (the latter was unfortunately hard to find during our visit). The Gloriette, a classicist pavilion on a hill, is freely accessible, as is the café inside it, the rooftop viewing terrace is one of the paid areas.

Belvedere Palace Garden

One of Europe's most impressive baroque garden complexes, between the Upper and Lower Belvedere, with artfully designed landscapes and glorious views over Vienna's city center. Baroque garden art with sculptures, fountains and pergolas, panoramic view from the upper palace, botanical garden and alpine garden for an extra fee. Free, open daily approximately 6:30am to 8pm.

Verdict: Anyone visiting Vienna should take time for a stroll through the Belvedere Palace Garden.

Belvedere Palace Garden

Schlumberger Wine Cellar

One of the country's oldest sparkling wine producers, a deep dive into the art of sparkling wine production. The Classic Tour for €18 per person includes admission to the cellar world, an audio guide for a self-guided tour, and a tasting of three sparkling wines (Sparkling Brut, Rosé Brut, Grüner Veltliner Brut). Thursday to Saturday noon to 8pm.

Verdict: An excellent choice for anyone interested in the art of sparkling wine production and looking for a bubbly experience, informative and enjoyable.

Schlumberger Wine Cellar

Viennese Heurigen and wine estates

Around the 19th district several Heurigen and Buschenschanken wine taverns with their own vineyards, quiet, green courtyards among the vineyards and warm staff, including Stadtweingut und Heuriger Johannes Müller, Buschenschank Wanderer at the foot of the Nussberg, Esse Weinbau & Buschenschank, Weingut-Heuriger Alter Bach-Hengl and Mayer am Pfarrplatz. Good wines everywhere like Grüner Veltliner and Zweigelt, plus a hearty Jause snack platter with cheese and farmhouse bread.

Verdict: Ideal for a relaxed and easygoing evening amid Vienna's vineyards.

Prater

Known for its amusement park that has been drawing visitors for over 250 years, the Vienna Giant Ferris Wheel is a genuine landmark with a great view over the city, plus many more rides from carousels to roller coasters.

Verdict: Not necessarily a must, but the park is fun regardless.

Prater

Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien

Impressive architecture meets big names like Bruegel, Rubens and Velázquez, the exhibition is huge but well organized. Especially lovely is the café under the dome. Open daily 10am to 6pm, Thursdays until 9pm.

Verdict: A worthwhile visit even for non-art-experts, for the architecture, exhibitions and the beautiful café.

Café Central as a sight

Not just a classic café but a genuine sight, the historic hall with high ceilings, marble columns and chandeliers is impressive, once a meeting place for figures like Freud, Trotsky and Zweig.

Verdict: Definitely worth a visit, more than just a coffeehouse, more a piece of Viennese culture.

Café Central as a sight

Brasserie Palmenhaus as a sight

A beautiful, historic glass building with a wonderful view of the Burggarten, especially lovely on the terrace in nice weather.

Verdict: An ideal destination for a relaxed meal or a drink in a unique setting, definitely one of Vienna's special places.

Our Verdict on Vienna

Our time in Vienna was unforgettable. In just four days we saw and experienced an incredible amount, from the magnificent Schönbrunn Palace to the Schlumberger Wine Cellar to the charming Café Central. Despite the short time, we made the most of the key sights and Vienna's special flair, the four days gave us a fantastic overview of the city.

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