Cabinas Yucca
I stayed at Cabinas Yucca, centrally located but still quiet enough to escape the biggest hustle, and right on the beach. The only downside were the thin walls, if you're sensitive to noise, pack earplugs.
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Caribbean coast
Culturally, Puerto Viejo is a completely different Costa Rica than the Pacific coast: African, Indigenous and European influences blend here into a relaxed reggae atmosphere with Caribbean flair. Together with its proximity to Cahuita National Park, this was the perfect ending to my trip for me, away from the classic tourist routes.
If you're sensitive to noise, pack earplugs, many simple guesthouses in Puerto Viejo have thin walls.
From Manuel Antonio I continued via San José: bus to San José (Tracopa terminal, about 3 hrs 40 min, €11–14), a short taxi to Terminal Atlántico Norte (about 10–15 min, about €8), and from there a direct bus to Puerto Viejo (about 4.5 hrs, €10–16, several times a day). In total I was traveling for around 8–10 hours. Important: depending on your destination and provider, buses in San José leave from different terminals, best to check exactly beforehand.
I stayed at Cabinas Yucca, centrally located but still quiet enough to escape the biggest hustle, and right on the beach. The only downside were the thin walls, if you're sensitive to noise, pack earplugs.
Wins you over with white sand, turquoise water and swings tied to palm trees, ideal for swimming, snorkeling or kayaking, reachable by tuk-tuk, taxi, bike or car.
A few kilometers south, surrounded by dense rainforest and, thanks to rock formations, home to small, sheltered coves, you'll often see monkeys and exotic birds here.
Just a few minutes from Puerto Viejo, known for strong waves and popular with surfers.
There isn't a big restaurant scene like in Manuel Antonio in Puerto Viejo, but a relaxed stroll through town is worth it: among the small shops you'll find freshly pressed juices, smoothies and healthy snacks everywhere.
The Jaguar Rescue Center (tours at 9:30am and 11:30am, about 1.5 hrs, $24) cares for injured and orphaned wildlife, on the tour I saw monkeys, wild cats, toucans, sloths and snakes up close.
Cahuita National Park (daily 8am–4pm, donation of about $5 at the main entrance or a fixed $10 at the Puerto Vargas entrance) combines rainforest hikes with dreamy beaches and a coral reef for snorkeling.
If you're after something more active, book a kayak tour through the river mouth of Punta Uva (about 2 hrs, $40–50 per person), paddling through mangroves where, with a bit of luck, you can spot monkeys, iguanas and river otters.